PUERTO RICO: Birds, Butterflies and Beauty
The rain came down in a force as the final three participants arrived at the airport on December 2 in San Juan, Puerto Rico. However, the sun was quick to reappear as we headed west on the highway. First stop, Laguna Tortuguero for a few quick birds, including the only Antillian Mango of the trip. From there we explored the scenic route along the north coast before arriving in time for dinner at our first hotel.
A good night's rest and an early rise got us to Cambalache Forest for a few hours of wonderful birding. Four of Puerto Rico's endemics were seen soon after arrival, along with a highlight specialty--Antillian Euphonia! Puerto Rican (PR) Lizard Cuckoos were very cooperative, as were PR Woodpecker, PR Vireo and Red-legged Thrush.
After a visit to explore Cuevos del Indios, a wonderful "hole" in the coastal rock with fading petroglyphs scraped into its walls, we headed souht toward Maricao. Once in Maricao we visited the fish hatchery, which unfortunately had closed early. However, we still found many great birds outside the gate including more endemics: Puerto Rican (Lesser Antillean) Pewee and PR Bullfinch. After dinner at Hacienda Juanita we walked the grounds and listened to a pair of PR Screech Owl, that did not offer to visit our spotlight beam.
Our morning birding around Hacienda Juanita was not too productive... mostly Bananaquits. However, we did get great looks at Pearly-eyed Thrasher and PR Emerald while there. The entrance to the Maricao State Forest at C120 Km 16.2 is a wonderful birding area and in mid-morning offered many wonderful birds including the endemic PR Tody, PR Tanager, PR Spindallis and the very rare Elfin Woods Warbler.
Continuing south we arrived in La Parguera for lunch. After checking into our hotel we headed off in a boat with Paradise Scuba for a snorkeling trip into the offshore mangrove islands and reef. What a great way to spend the afternoon! We saw many wonderful creatures including an Arrowhead Crab, several varieties of sea stars, sea cucumbers, corals, and fish plus a very coopperative Ruddy Turnstone that allowed a photo from 3 feet away!
Our morning walk in Parguera was rewarded with the species we came here to find... the endemic and endangered Yellow-shouldered Blackbird! After breakfast we departed for the Guanica State Forest, a beautiful dry forest on the south coast. PR Tody, Caribbean Elania and Gray Kingbird were everywhere. As were the endemic Adelaid's Warbler... singing continuously. A wonderful gift along the "birding trail" was a roosting PR Nightjar! By nightfall we were at Casa Cubuy enjoying a great meal! After dinner we stood watch for the local PR Screech Owl, and were rewarded for our patience!
El Yunque was our destination for the day. The park was quiet, however, we had great views of a few new birds Scaly-naped Pigeon, Green-throated Carib and a wonderful Mangrove Cuckoo that was not expected at this elevation. The beautiful and waterfalls drew our camera lenses in every direction.
The next morning we explored the trail and waterfalls at Casa Cubuy. Incredible scenery and an exhuberant pair of PR Todies offered many photo opportunities! After a search for more orchids and birds up the hill, we departed for Fajardo and our flight to Vieques.
Ten minutes after take-off we landed in Vieques and met our driver. After dropping our luggage at our hotel and a quick change to swim suits we headed off to dinner and an evening on the amazing Bioluminescent Bay. Our swim was pleasant, albeit extra wet with a sudden downpour! The blue glow of the dinoflagellates all around us as we swam offered a surreal image difficult to capture with a camera.
Our final full day began with a birdwalk along the shoreline before breakfast. We added a few shorebirds and the gem of the day -- Antillean Crested Hummingbird! After breakfast we grabbed kayaks and snorkeling gear. We paddled out to the island off of Esparanza to snorkel along the rocky shoreline enjoying fish and coral of many varieties!
After our return we visited the Conservation Trust of Vieques. While we dined on our take-out lunch, Mark Martin--the driving force behind the Trust--offered a brief presentation on all the trust's conservation efforts. One more endemic was needed however, and we got the PR Flycatcher on our visit to Kiani NWR, the former Navy bombing range.
An amazing dinner at our hotel and an evening walk through town rounded out this wonderful portion of our Puerto Rico trip. The following day was our return to the main island and a drive to San Juan to catch our flights home!
A successful trip full of birds, plants, butterflies, snorkeling, bioluminescent bay and increditble Puerto Rican scenery!
Join us next year... check out the itinerary and dates!
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