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South Florida Trip Report April 18 – May 5, 2005
1st Tour
Day 1 / April 18
Following an early morning get-together for breakfast we headed south to work our way down the keys, passing a plethora of Eurasian Collared Doves, Boat-tailed and Common Grackles. In the Hardwood Hammocks of Upper Key Largo Black-whiskered Vireo was soon heard and located with crippling views 20 feet away from us. Cardinals and White-eyed Vireos were numerous while our first warblers were Black and White, American Redstart, Black-throated Blue, Northern Parula and a very cooperative Worm-eating….then we heard Mangrove Cuckoo give its deep guttural call and soon had it fly across the path and land with sight. Every time it would move it would call and we were able to relocate it, at times in full view. A check of some nearby developments only produced 3 dove species including Common Ground Doves. The Wild Bird Center (a rehabilitation place) allowed us to view Great Egret and ‘Great White’ Heron side by side and see the differences in bare part colors as well as structurally. Next to them were several snowies including one with a deep red loral patch – its getting to be breeding time. On the bayside lagoon a Sora was briefly sighted walking along the Black Mangrove roots but something flushed it along with the Black-necked Stilts. Lake Edna was rather quiet without the noisy Least Terns and with the water level relatively high we only managed to find a Spotted Sandpiper and Little Blue Heron.
Following lunch on the road a stop at the lagoon on Ohio Key was most productive with numerous shorebird species. Comparisons of Least, Semi and White-rump Sandpiper were well received, the later being a lone individual and the Semi’s being a large group. Good numbers of Semi-palmated Plovers were about doing their usually frozen stance followed by a turn of a few degrees and a quick walk. Amongst them we found a Piping Plover. A few Short-billed Dowitchers were about as a large group of Willets was sleeping in the shade of a young mangrove. Amongst them was a smaller and browner individual that allowed us to compare the two sub-species, western and eastern, the later being the lone individual. When will these be split?
A Tri-colored Heron was quietly feeding along the far shore line while both the white and dark morphs of Reddish Egret were seen busily prancing about after small fish, the later very close. An Osprey managed to scare up a group of terns that were roosting behind the mangroves on the ocean side which turned (no pun intended) out to be Royal and Sandwich Terns. On No Name Key it was not long before we located Key Deer. There were 4 individuals in all, one of which we patiently waited for to cross the road. As we headed further down the Keys a Sharp-shinned Hawk was seen flying over our vehicle and on Boca Chica Key we had great looks at a close feeding group of Least Sandpipers, Sanderlings and Ruddy Turnstones. Wilson’s Plovers, Black-bellied Plovers and Dunlin were found on the lagoon where we had excellent side by side comparisons of Caspian and Royal Terns as well as Caspian and Least Terns - the later being completely dwarfed by our largest Tern. The ponds on East Rockland held Blue-winged Teal, White Ibis and Moorhen.
At the Botanical Garden there was a wonderful show around the car park with half a dozen Scissor-tailed Flycatchers, Blue Grosbeak, Indigo Buntings, Eastern Kingbirds, Gray Kingbird and amongst the Turkey Vultures a dark morph Short-tailed Hawk. Inside Blackpolls and Catbirds were numerous while a Ruby-throated Hummingbird was seen perched. A Kentucky Warbler was chipping away in the undergrowth and was seen walking along the new boardwalk. Around the pond area a Common Yellowthroat briefly came into view and Prairies were abundant. A Green Iguana was lazily stretched out on a low overhanging branch. While trying to chase down a Veery, a male Scarlet Tanager was spotted high in a fig tree. We were here to look for the Western Spindalis, and look we did. A one point I saw a dark bird streak through the canopy but never to locate it. In the ‘catherdal’ area of the gardens we had the bird again streak through but at least this time the white wing markings were evident but that was all we saw of this individual. In a residential area in Key West a garden produced an assortment of ‘blackbirds’ including several male Shiny Cowbirds along with 5 females. At one stage both Shiny and Brown-headed Cowbirds were on the telegraph wires allowing us to compare bill shapes. A cooperative White-crowned Pigeon was also seen sitting at the top of a tree in their yard. Our final stop of the evening was to look for Antillean Nighthawk. A nighthawk was spotted briefly a good distance away but it never called. Just as it was getting dark, both Mike and Marianne heard an Antillean call once only to have it drowned out by a cargo plane coming into land at the Navy base. It was never seen! From here it was a short distance to our boat, where we boarded for our journey to the Dry Tortugas.
Day 2 / April 19, 2005
Following a few hours at sea we were in the Gulf Stream and though the numbers of birds this morning was rather low the quality was excellent, in spite of the rough rolling seas. We began with Pomarine Jaeger coming off the water and flying right besides the boat, followed by another and later another pair – all giving excellent views. A Northern Gannet, no doubt one of the last ones to stay south this long this winter, was a surprise. Audubon’s Shearwater proved to be frustrating as several were seen over an hours stretch but only to disappear into the distance. A Brown Booby or two put in appearance and later we would see many especially around Tails End and Iowa Rock. Just before reaching Tails End 3 Bridled Terns flew towards the bow of the boat and for about 5 minutes put on a show basically hanging in front of the boat. Shortly after they left a large group of 30 Audubon’s Shearwaters flew in from behind the boat and landed on the water. Though only a 4 Sooty Terns were seen until we were within a mile of Fort Jefferson it was a great start to the day.
Following lunch aboard we took the zodiac into Garden Key and began to search for the remaining passerines left over from the large fallout 4 days earlier. A male Painted Bunting at the fountain was a good omen to begin with. Soon parulas, Palm and Yellow-rumped Warblers followed in for a drink. Indigo Buntings, Yellow-billed Cuckoo and a female Merlin were seen well, being perched only meters away. A search of the campground turned up Swainson’s and Wood Thrush, Yellow-throated, Prothonotary, Blackpoll, Black and White and Hooded Warbler along with loads of palms and yellow-rumps. A Eurasian Collared Dove can no longer be considered a surprise as they are all over south Florida. Purple Martin, Barn and Rough-wing Swallow rounded out species at that location. Walking around to the spit that now links Garden and Bush Key a male Bobolink was perched on the Sea Oats. From the roped off area on the spit, Sandwich, Royal and a 1st year Roseate Tern could be seen along with close up views of Brown Noddy and Sooty Tern – the later 2 nesting on Bush Key. Besides the North coaling dock, a Sea Grape was very fruitful producing 2 Cape May’s, a Tennessee, Ruby-throated Hummingbird, female Orchard Oriole and some Prairie’s while a pair of Peregrines were seen flying into the tern colony and having them rise in mass. Meanwhile back at the fountain Ronda keep watch and had a Worm-eating, Blue Grosbeak and Common Yellowthroat to go along with most of what we had seen on our walk around. Sometimes it pays to sit in one great location! During the late afternoon we split up into 2 groups and took the zodiac towards Long Key for looks at the Magnificent Frigatebird colony, while a group of 30 birds just ‘hung’ in the air above. Most of the nests were now located on the south end as this was the least damaged section as a result of Hurricane Charlie (the first of 3 to hit this area last fall). A few chicks were seen and alas no males were displaying. There was a solitary immature Brown Booby perched in the colony amongst Double-crested Cormorants and the second group got to see a Northern Harrier.
Day 3 / April 20
A search of all the regular spots throughout Garden Key turned up most of the species that we had seen the previous afternoon, though it seemed as though the number of individuals had dropped. As we walked along the Sea Grapes the Painted Bunting was seen along with numerous Indigo Buntings and a male Blue Grosbeak. During a brief shower we visited the bakery and chapel (neither in operation) and watched a male Summer Tanager sit quiet content in a Geiger Tree. New for the trip was a Northern and Louisiana Waterthrush, both seen by most of the group. Several Common Tern’s were sitting besides Sandwich and Royal Terns on Bush Key and a Roseate Tern was also picked out. Green Herons would occasionally fly out from dense shrubbery into the open. An hour sitting at the campsite watching the birds come into a water drip was very productive. As they say, if you sit long enough they will come, and sure enough there was a steady parade of nearly all the mornings passerines – Pronotontary, Black & White, Black-throated Blue, Redstart, Palm, Prairie, Blackpoll, Palm, Yellow-throated, Palm, Parula, Indigo Bunting, Blue Grosbeak, Wood Thrush…...
After lunch we headed for Loggerhead Key and soon were walking the southern end. A nighthawk, either a Common or Lesser, was located near the sea oats and will hopefully be able to identify it at a later date. Having studied that one closely, another one flushed from the brush and was more than likely a male Common. Then we heard an Antillean Nighthawk and watched it fly all around us for 3 or 4 minutes before in landed. Did we somehow flush it? Or had it just arrived? We’re not sure as none of us saw it until it was calling in the air, but none the less it saved us from having to stay until dark at Key West tomorrow! The raptors put on great show, though only Michael saw it, a Merlin chased after a Yellow-billed Cuckoo. 2 juvenile Broadwings, 2 Peregrines, merlins, kestrels, Sharp-chinned Hawk and an Osprey made up the roving group. Gray Kingbirds along with Eastern Kingbirds were perched conspicuously on bare branches while a few Bobolinks would occasionally show themselves on top of shrubs. As far as warblers went it was slim pickings with only the ubiquitous Palms and Blackpolls.
Finally the seas had calmed down to a tolerable 10 knots which made for smoother sailing across to Hospital Key. Here we settled in and watched the Masked Boobies, about 60 of them in all along with at least 4 well grown chicks. On this gorgeous afternoon they were very cooperative taking off in lager parties of a dozen or more and flying all around the Tiburon before coming back to land and being greeted by the grunt calls of females. Occasionally we would hear males give their high pitched whistle calls, though we were never sure whether they were from those flying in or those on the small sandy island. The after dinner moat walk was a great success. It began with a Barn Owl flying over our heads and around the campsite before disappearing behind the fort. This was followed by a Burrowing Owl flying in very low to the ground at the entrance way to the fort. What a start and totally unexpected! Under a bright moon we walked the moat finding more Spiny-tailed Lobster than I had ever seen before, some of which would have needed several sticks of butter! Spiny Urchins, Sea Cucumbers, Upside down Jellyfish and Queen Conchs were seen well, one of the later had a massive Hermit Crab inside. Bristle Worms and Tiger-tailed Cucumbers along with a large Rainbow Parrotfish rounded out a pleasant evening.
Day 4 / April 21
We awoke this morning with at least 14 new US citizens. A raft from Cuba with refugees made it to Bush Key at 4AM, no doubt catching someone naping! Their reward…. $8000 (each), a medicare card, and freedom. What a great country! Around the drip a Black-whiskered Vireo was being seen. In the Fort, 2 White-winged Doves that were seen the previous evening remained while Blue Grosbeak and Cape May Warbler continued to dazzle everyone. We left Garden Key at 10AM and shortly after had Brown Booby on Iowa Rock, Masked Boobies on Hospital Key and an assortment of birds on Rebecca, though no Roseate’s. The journey was very smooth and rather uneventful which was a shame for Michael as he finally found his ‘sea-legs’. Since we made good time we decided to check out Pelican Shoals about 7 miles north east of Stock Island and found good numbers of Least Terns as well as about a dozen sleek white terns with long tails – finally Roseate’s. Both species nest on this small and narrow sand and limestone bar. Pulling into our berth at the Marina, Sally shouted ‘Loon’, and sure enough after we turned the boat around there was a winter plumaged Common Loon.
Day 5 / April 22
Back on land we started by walking right under a singing Spot-breasted Oriole who was right next to his still-under-construction nest. It took a while and some driving with windows down before we located parakeets. Yes Monk Parakeets were around, but it was the smaller ones we were after. A pair of Yellow-chevroned streaked through the trees but not everyone got to see them. We had a little more luck with White-winged though it looked as though it was going to be the same kind of views to begin with. We locate a Palm tree they were nesting in, only to have them fly out and away. After we had given up hope and began to pile into the van, they returned – noisily! This time one of them perched nicely for us to get a good look at the white in the wing along with the dull eye ring and pale bill. While watching him, a group of about a dozen Budgie’s scream passed. The Smooth-billed Ani, a rapidly disappearing species in South Florida, was next. All it took was a pleasant long walk and there they were – all 2 of them. We watched them flew from tree to tree around us and had wonderful views. One tree in the area held individuals of numerous warbler species, including Yellow, Parula, Black and White, Blackpoll, Black-throated Blue, Palm, Prairie as well as an Indigo. Northwest of Miami there is a stronghold of Purple Swamphens, best described as a Purple Gallinule on steroids. We found 2 in different locations, the later with a broken leg.
The afternoon was spent around wetlands beginning with what is becoming a very disappointing location at this time of year – Loxahatchee NWR. With the levels in the impoundments all the same (high) it is not enticing waders and shorebirds and to boot, where are the rest of the birds? Red-shouldered Hawk was new for the trip as well as a Red-tailed Hawk. The best things were an assortment of butterflies including Giant Swallowtail, Gulf Fritillary, Julia, Monarch, Queen, Pearl Crescent and Red Admiral. We visited a brand new waste water treatment plant in West Palm Beach County known as Green Cay. They have done extensive plantings and it is laid out superbly. Why can’t other counties follow this model? It is truly a great success. Black-necked Stilt’s were sitting on eggs and we even watched a copulation! In one section there were a dozen Long-billed and Short-billed Dowitcher along with 3 dozen Stilt Sandpipers busily feeding. Glossy Ibis were very confiding and both Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs were everywhere. Spotted Sandpipers were dotted about the shorelines and we watched a young Killdeer venture out on its own to feed.
Day 6 / April 23
This morning we walked around the original waste water treatment plant in Palm Beach County, Wakodahatchee. As usual a wide assortment of homo sapiens was using the walk for various activities and the 2 hours we spent here went by very quickly. Birds were everywhere with Least Tern’s continuously giving their squeaky toy calls; Anhinga’s with wings spread out to dry, preening and feeding their young; a Limpkin calling a few times; Black-necked Stilts on nests; Purple Martins; Tri-colored and Green Heron’s keeping busy; Coots and Moorhens feeding their 2 day old chicks, the later with blue and red patches on the head; Solitary Sandpipers, this time living up to their name; Least Bittern’s, a dozen of them seen either stalking, chasing each other, flying across the pond or patiently waiting for something to move in the water below them and of course Alligators and Marsh Rabbits.
Heading north we ventured into prairie country dotted with Sable Palms and Pinewoods, coming across a Crested Caracara perched on a telegraph pole and while watching that we had an Otter cross the road with a pup behind her. A Swallow-tailed Kite soon followed; Wild Turkey was seen besides the road and Sandhill Cranes dotted the landscape at regular intervals. A highlight was seeing up to a nine Bald Eagles in one spot including a youngster on a large stick nest in a lone tree in the short grass prairie. The Double C Bar Ranch had a pair of Sandhill Cranes along with its larger and whiter cousin, a Whooping Crane, one from the re-introduction program begun some 10 years ago. Joe Overstreet was excellent with more cranes, a pair of Pileated Woodpeckers, numerous Eastern Meadowlarks and 19 Wood Storks roosting in the tops of several Live Oaks besides the pond. While watching them, a pair of American White Pelicans flew over. Scanning Lake Kissimmee, a Bald Eagle was perched above a sign post in the water and 4 Snail Kites were seen quartering the marsh occasionally dropping to pick up Apple Snails and landing on a perch or on the ground to devour them, while a Loggerhead Shrike flew around us.
By the time we reached 3 Lakes WMA the wind had picked up considerably and this made looking for the reclusive Bachman’s Sparrow near impossible. Several hours of searching failed to produce even a ‘pip’. Eastern Bluebird, Eastern Towhee, Pine Warbler all put in appearances as did a White-tailed Kite flying over the Cypress, which was a great find. Zebra Swallowtails were also seen as was a pair of Nine-banded Armadillos busily feeding besides the road.
Day 7 / April 24
It was a wonderful start to the day in front of the entrance to Avon Park Air Force Range as a Limpkin flew across the river and landed 20 yards from us, walked around, preened and eventually walked into the underbrush where she no doubt had a nest. This was followed by a Swallow-tailed Kite gliding over the tree tops and at one stage descending and picking off some leaves that it probably took for its nest. Soon a pair of them was visible and as one could image they kept us enthralled with the graceful flight. Tufted Titmouse, Red-eyed Vireo, Northern Parula, Carolina Wren and Cardinal were all heard here. Once inside the range and through the permitting process we headed for the pinewoods, this time with far more favorable wind conditions than yesterday and soon had a signing Bachman’s Sparrow very close to the road, though he always seemed to be partially hidden. Further up the road we located a second bird this time deeper in the woods. Following the direction of his persistent song we made our way through Saw Palmetto and grasses until he was in full view still singing his heart out. At one stage he came within 10 yards and dropped to the ground where he disappeared. Soon he was located walking amongst the palmettos and grasses and came with 6 feet of us on at least one occasion. Blue-gray Gnatcatcher, Eastern Towhee, Great Crested Flycatcher and Eastern Bluebird were all seen here and Pine Warbler was heard. One more stop produced half a dozen very confiding Florida Scrub Jays which kept us amused as the continually made the rounds landing on our hands to pick up peanuts which they duly flew away with and cached. Before heading south we stopped adjacent to the Venus Flatwoods when we located a pair of Red-headed Woodpeckers which at one point came relatively close, landing on the fence posts while a Loggerhead Shrike surveyed the open prairie from a telegraph wire. As much as we were delighted to see the woodpecker it was another Swallow-tailed Kite that stole the show, flying towards us and around us at times as close as 30 feet. This is still THE bird.
Reaching Tamiami Trail we stopped at Big Cypress Bend Boardwalk and much to our relief found few mosquitoes and much to our dismay few birds! Red-eyed Vireos were singing, Catbirds were foraging about the ground floor and titmice were feeding their young but that was all! Some consolation was 5 very young alligators covered (and well camouflaged) in duck weed and resting at the ponds edge. Opposite Shark Valley 2 Snail Kites were observed, one a great distance away while we had great views of a much closer male. Following a Cuban dinner we finished the day watching the mother lode of noisy White-winged Parakeets coming into roost at Baptist Hospital in Kendall. While following them across into a nearby neighborhood we came across 2 Hill Mynahs and a Red-whiskered Bulbul. As dusk turned to darkness a final stop produced a few parrots coming into roost at another location which included White-fronted, Red-crowned, Lilac-crowned and a single Yellow-crowned. While unloading the van at the hotel we all watched 3 Common Nighthawks flying around the car park lights occasionally calling.
Day 8 / April 25
Our day in the Everglades began at Lucky Hammock with the first of what would be many Indigo Buntings seen along with a female Painted Bunting, Black-throated Blue , Black and White and Blackpoll. The Anhinga and Gumbo Limbo Trails were very slow though Michael did have a Veery and we all saw a Northern Waterthrush. There were a few birds moving about in Mahagony Hammock tough we did see a Yellow-billed Cuckoo, Eastern Kingbird, Great-crested Flycatcher, numerous Catbirds, Orchard Orioles, Red-eyed Vireos and a Swallow-tailed Kite flying circles over the hammock. Being springtime the water levels had already begun to recede throughout the ‘sea of grass’ though the ponds seemed to have a good supply of water. Paurotis Pond was bustling with Great Egrets, White Ibis, Wood Storks and Roseate Spoonbills all nesting. The noise at times was deafening and comical. A pair of Snowy Egrets were seen displaying in full breeding plumage through an opening in the mangroves. There was also a good showing of the usual warblers in the surrounded vegetation including Common Yellowthroats and Prairies. Under a shaded canopy at West Lake we had a leisurely lunch which was interrupted first by an adult Bald Eagle and then a lawn mower. A walk through the mangroves produced a small group of warblers including several Redstarts and Black and Whites, Black-throated Blue, Parula and Worm-eating while 2 White Pelicans were seen swimming a great distance out. Our first bird on the lawn at Flamingo just happened to be a male Shiny Cowbird. Several Brown-headed Cowbirds were seen later. Ospreys were numerous and noisy and we got to see a small female American Crocodile basking on the bank of the canal. A walk around Eco Pond was very successful with views of our first male Yellow Warbler, Gray Kingbird, White-eyed Vireo, Bobolink, Red-shouldered Hawk and an outrageously red colored (the bare parts) White Ibis, in fully breeding plumage of course. A stop on the way back at Robert is Here for Key Lime milkshakes was much welcomed, before taking a short pre-dinner siesta followed by some owling. First up after dinner was the Eastern Screech Owl. With a little patience we had a gray phase 20 feet in front of us within half an hour. This was followed by a celebratory Key Lime pie! Next up was a visit into the Everglades where we had 2 Opossums in the road and heard several Chuck-will’s-widows. The temperatures were rather cool by South Florida standards and they probably accounted for the fact that there were few flying around or alighting on the road.
Day 9 / April 26
Our first stop was along the turnpike to watch the West Indian race of Cave Swallow that nest under the overpasses. There were several peering out their nests but they didn’t stay, preferring to join the dozen or so others that were flying in and around the overpass. It still allowed us to get great looks as they came close to us or where lit up by the early morning sunlight revealing their dark rump and ‘headlight’. In the Miami suburbs of Kendall we found 3 Monk Parakeets feeding on weed seeds in a vacant lot and 20 Mitred Parakeets at a feeder (along with an amazing amount of noise, mowers, weedwackers, helicopters, dogs etc…) and had a pair of Yellow-chevroned Parakeets land in a tree above us, where we were able to get a look at the differences between this species and White-winged. Cedar Waxwings were heard flying around and 2 came in to land in the same tree as the parakeets. It was a tough choice for us as to which ones to view, but neither stayed long. Driving the neighborhoods looking for other feeders we came across ten to fifteen very confiding Yellow-chevroned Parakeets ‘guarding’ a feeder. We finished our very successful tour at Matheson Hammock Park where the tropical sounds of Hill Mynah’s greeted us upon our arrival. A Pied-billed Grebe was on the pond and a few warblers were seen as we worked our way around, these being the same species that seem to be moving through at the moment – Black and White, Common Yellowthroat, Northern Parula, American Redstart and Red-eyed Vireo. Cedar Waxwings and Yellow-chevroned Parakeets were frequently heard and a Pileated Woodpecker was spotted perched on the windscreen of a state trooper vehicle! We finished with 191 species plus an additional 8 non-countable ABA birds! Excellent.
2nd Tour
Day 1 (10) / April 27
For the first time in 10 days there was a change in the weather – overcast and drizzling with a little humidity. Parrots were the first order of the day with Orange-winged Parrot, Red-masked, Green and Monk being seen well in the Miami Springs area. Miami Shores was a little disappointing with only a few Yellow-chevroned flying over, though we did get great looks at about 3 pairs of Spot-breasted Orioles between the two residential areas. With the rain picking up we decided to drive Perimeter Road to look for the Ani’s and sure enough one wet bird was sitting on the barbed wire fence and shortly thereafter a second one joined it. Heading west we visited the very confiding Burrowing Owls at Brian Piccolo Park and had a Loggerhead Shrike there as well. In the Spring Lakes areas we found 5 Purple Swamphens along with a Purple Gallinule.
We spent the afternoon slowly walking around the new wetland at Green Cay. There were pretty much the same species as we had a few days earlier along with new ones such as Least Terns, Limpkin and Blue-winged Teal. An amazing number of Stilt Sandpipers were about, all feeding along side Long-billed Dowitchers and side by side comparisons of Lesser Yellowlegs and Solitary Sandpiper was wonderful
Day 2 (11) / April 28
We awoke this morning to the marvelous news that the mythical and majestic Ivory-billed Woodpecker had been found – 66 years! Following yesterday’s humidity today was a delight and Wakodahatchee is a wonderful place to start the day. A female Least Bittern was quickly found and soon thereafter a week old fluffy chick which had ventured up and out of the bulrush and was doing its best to keep its balance with its huge feet. Another 8 adults followed during the course of our 2 hour stay. Least Terns were busy trying to attract a mate, though this time it seemed as though there were fewer takers and the males ended up eating the fish. A Limpkin was seen walking along the top of a chain linked fence calling non stop and all the usual suspects dotted the wetland. A quick stop at Okeeheelee Nature Center was primarily to see if the over wintering Painted Buntings were still around, but it seemed by all accounts that we had missed them by a few weeks. Butterflies were our consolation – Monarch and Zebra Longwings.
Heading to the prairies we soon encountered a family of Crested Caracara’s including a juvenile; numerous Sandhill Cranes along with at least 3 pairs of very young brown chicks; Bald Eagles and 2 Whooping Cranes at the Double C Bar Ranch. Joe Overstreet landing produced a male Snail Kite at close quarters hunting the shallow reed beds for Apple Snails, gently dropping (well how fast can apple snails run?) to pick one up in its talons and fly to a wooden pylon where it proceeded to pick out the snail before devouring the shell. It then when back to hunting, soon picking up another and this time transferred it to its beak and flying away with it. At 3 Lakes WMA things were rather quiet though we did have Common Nighthawks displaying, Eastern Meadowlarks, Eastern Towhee, Eastern Bluebird and Pine Warbler in short order as well as several Mockingbirds singing continuously. It took almost 2 hours before we had a Bachman’s Sparrow perched up and singing in front of us and a family group of 3 Red-cockaded Woodpeckers come out of their roost hole and proceed to make all kinds of noise as they tapped away at the pine bark close to their roost. Heading to our hotel Ted and Wanda picked out Wild Turkeys and a pair of Northern Bobwhites along with a Nine-banded Armadillo besides the road.
Day 3 (12) / April 29
Driving to our first stop this morning in Avon Park Bombing Range we kicked up numerous Common Ground Doves and heard Great crested Flycatchers as we made our way to the grasslands. As soon as we turned the engine off a Grasshopper Sparrow sang twice before retiring for the day. Eastern Meadowlarks, Eastern Bluebirds were everywhere and a large group of Bobolinks were seen while a Bobwhite was calling and a Barred Owl was heard deep in the Pinelands. We took a pleasant short walk out to the tower along the nature trail as Red-eyed Vireos and Northern Parulas sang from within the cypress swamp. Our goal here was to sort through the vultures and find a Short-tailed Hawk. It was some work with about 40 of them somewhere out in front of us riding the thermals over the trees that surround Lake Arbuckle. Ospreys were numerous and Swallow-tailed Kites even joined in; two groups of 3 Wood Ducks flew through our field of view and then Ted called out that he thought he had a good candidate. It was a mile away, but with patience we could see that it was a dark buteo riding the thermals in tight circles until it reached a considerable height before swooping down several hundred feet – classic Short-tailed Hawk behavior. Leaving the boardwalk we came across a Red-shouldered Hawk in the swamp and had a light-morph Short-tailed tease us with short views through the canopy. At the other end of the range Florida Scrub Jays were as cooperative as ever and glad to take the gourmet cuisine that we laid on for them.
At the Nature Conservancy’s Preserve 4 Red-headed Woodpeckers put on a wonderful show flying around us and Downy Woodpeckers were observed at their nest hole 5 feet off the ground in a single shrub along the fence line. Flicker and Red-bellied added to the pecker family species total. A Brown Thrasher was also seen here working its way along the ground between saw palmettos and eventually flying across the road. We searched Fish Eating Creek for Short-tailed Hawks but only ended up with an assortment of distant vultures. We finally made it into Miami and after an excellent Cuban dinner headed for various parrot roosts which were a success. First off, about 2 dozen White-winged Parakeets were observed having their dinner on berries before flying of to roost in palm trees. Both Red-whiskered Bulbul and Hill Mynahs were also seen at this location along with a pair of Loggerhead Shrikes feeding their 4 well grown youngsters. A final stop at dusk produced about 3 dozen amazonia parrots, the majority being White-fronted along with Lilac-crowned and 2 Red-crowned.
Day 4 (13) / April 30
Our day down the Keys began very well with Black-whiskered Vireo (the first of many), Cape May, Black-throated Blue and Prairie Warbler, but it was the Mangrove Cuckoo that got the best of us today beating us at 5 different locations over a 4 hour period! Meanwhile the winds picked up which in turn meant no mosquitoes – no mosquitoes, no cuckoo! The Rachel Carson NWR on Ohio Key produced an assortment of shorebirds and waders including Semi-palmated and Black-bellied Plover, Short-billed Dowitcher, Willet (western), Western Sandpipers and a Reddish Egret. On No Name Key we found several Key Deer the diminutive race of the White-tailed along with a stunning male Scarlet Tanager. On the western end of the Keys a Wurdlemann’s Heron (Great Blue x Great White) was seen standing on a lone short red mangrove. Around the Key West Tropical Forest and Botanical Gardens, 2 Scissor-tailed Flycatchers continue to be seen along with a plethora of Indigo Buntings and a Blue Grosbeak. Inside, Swainson’s Thrush’s, Catbirds and Summer Tanagers were busily feeding on Strangler Fig berries while an Eastern Wood Pewee flew sorties from on open perch. Black and White, Palm and a Blue-winged Warbler were seen around the pond, but the Western Spindalis continued to be as elusive as ever. In Key West a yard with feeders and seed produced doves and blackbirds including 2 Shiny Cowbirds, one of which was a young male (a first for me) and 9 White-crowned Pigeons. Everyone that was going to join us on the Dry Tortugas leg of the trip meet us at our agreed spot for our dusk vigil for Antillean Nighthawk which turned out to be a bust. Where are they?? It was then onto the marina to board the “Tiburon” for the first of 3 nights aboard the boat that we take us to the Dry Tortugas.
Day 5 (14) / May 1
At 5am the boat set sail and before we knew it we were bouncing all over the place. The good news was that it did not last long, as Tim decided it would be far too rough out in the Gulf Stream, so we took the inshore route and had a rather pleasant journey in. The bad news was that we did not get a chance to look for some of the pelagic species, but at least everyone survived the journey without incident. Brown Boobies were seen here and there and were far more numerous once we got nearer to the Dry Tortugas. A bit of a surprise was 2 separate juvenile Masked Boobies a good distance from Hospital Key, the tiny sand spit where they nest.
Though the winds had died down for most of the journey, by the time we reached Garden Key they had picked up and it began to spit and drizzle. A weak front was heading south and passing over us, consequently the birding was very good. A stunning male Black-throated Green was seen in the sea grapes along with a Cape May. Magnolia followed, then Palm, Blackpoll, Black and White, Northern Waterthrush, Yellow-billed Cuckoos, dozens of them, Orchard Oriole, Spotted Sandpiper, Least Sandpiper…..it was endless….and all the time, Sooty Tern’s and Brown Noddies were noisily flying around Bush Key with good numbers heading out to sea to feed. Inside the fort the activity around the fountain was actually slow, no doubt due to the fact there was other available sources of water for the birds due to the light rain. Sitting in full view in the middle of the large buttonwood in the center of the parade ground was the Caribbean race of the Short-eared Owl, one day to be known as the Arawak Owl, named after the Indians that inhabited the Caribbean. Working our way round the grounds inside of the Fort, a number of females were seen including a Kentucky feeding in the grass, a Hooded working the lower elevation of a Buttonwood, both Scarlet and Summer Tanager and as before more Yellow-billed Cuckoo’s nervously flitting about from branch to branch and tree to tree. Indigo’s were in the taller grasses at the officers’ quarters as well as a Blue Grosbeak and Veery and Gray-cheeked Thrush were side by side near the base of the lighthouse. After the front passed it was noticeable that new birds had dropped in, including 30 plus Bobolinks, Palm Warblers, Tennessee, Eastern Wood Pewee, Eastern and Gray Kingbirds, Rough-winged and Tree Swallow, and a male Baltimore Oriole. On the coaling docks and the sand spit along Bush Key 2 Ring-billed Gulls sat along with Laughing Gulls, Royal, Sandwich and Common Terns were side by side and Black-bellied Plovers, Whimbrel and Willet stood motionless on the pylons. Working the wrack line were a number of Ruddy Turnstones while a Least and Semi Sandpiper and Semi-palmated Plover would be feeding on the narrow strip between the wrack and waters edge. A Merlin was busy flying around the fort looking for dinner and a 3 Peregrines were seen perched near the frigatebird colony when 3 of us decided to venture out by skiff to check on it. It turned out to be not the best of ideas as the winds picked up making it impossible for us not be covered in spray as we returned in!
Day 6 (15) / May 2
Following a calm night we entered the fort this morning to find a small overnight fallout with large numbers of thrushes, cuckoo’s and swallows being seen all around us, not to mention the warblers. Where does one look? Tree by tree we combed the fort, campground and area leading to the north coaling dock. Every tree had jittery cuckoos flying out of them, to numerous to count in most instances, though at one stage we did have a dozen in one scope view. Scope views of Dickcissels were enjoyed by the group along with Blue Grosbeak, Summer and Scarlet Tanagers. Swainson’s, Gray-cheeked and Veery’s at time came within feet of us and a Wood Thrush was seen taking a drink from a dripping water jug in the camp ground. Around the fountain Kentucky, Black and White, Blackpoll, Bay-breasted, Hooded and Chestnut-sided all put in appearances while a Black-whiskered Vireo and Prothontary was seen in the Gumbo Limbo by Dr Mudd’s cell. At the campground Peg and Bob watched a very exhausted female Blackburnian succumb to the rigors of migration while on a brighter note a Worm-eating was foraging amongst the sea grapes and a Chuck-will’s-widow was perched at the based of the trunk.
After lunch we visited Loggerhead Key where we watched a Peregrine take an unidentified warbler and proceed to eat it. On another occasion we had some aerial drama when one went after a cuckoo only to pick off one that ‘got in the way’! Amongst a group of Bobolinks and Dickcissels were 4 Shiny Cowbirds feeding on the Sea Oats. Purple Martins, Gray Kingbirds, an Eastern Kingbird along with Indigos and a few warblers, including a Chestnut-sided, always seemed to be view as we working our way from one end to the other of the island. Though only one Merlin was seen, we did find another raptor in the form of a young Broad winged Hawk that must have flown in after we arrived. Following a short trip over to Hospital Key we watched 28 Masked Boobies on their breeding grounds, a narrow small sandbar that had about 9 young of different ages. A few females were vocal, grunting often and the males whistling could also be heard.
At dusk we watched 4 nighthawks flying around the buttonwoods in the fort, one of which was undoubtedly an Antillean and another, a Common. The other two were best left unidentified, though they looked as though they were flying with the same shallow wingbeat and horizontal glide that Antilleans show. Unfortunately the only call we heard was a Common ‘peenting’ twice. We joined Mike Ryan’s excellent Lattern Walk where he recounted in great detail about life as it was in the fort during its heyday in the 1860’s….brutal conditions and a god forsaken place that as many as 2000 soldiers had to put up with. At one point he demonstrated the loading and firing techniques of his rifle, actually 4 times, though it was with the first loud bang that the nighthawks took off north! Following his presentation we toured the moat seeing numerous Cassiopeia’s (up side down jelly fish) and Swimming Crab with its oar like paddles, a young Nurse Shark, Sea Cucumbers and Sea Anemones, many Spiny-tailed Lobsters, Queen Conch, Sea Urchins, Red Fire Worm, Bristle Starfish, Pincushion Starfish, Needlefish, Parrotfish and an 18 inch Tiger tailed Sea Cucumber moving about along with a True Tulip.
Day 7 (16) / May 3
Many birds had taken advantage of the calm evening and headed north, though there were still many about. Yellow Warblers, Redstarts and Common Yellowthroat numbers seemed to have increased. Two Short-eared Owls (Arawak) were located after a day’s absence; Dickcissel’s were trying to break out in full song; Bobolinks and large numbers of thrushes continued to feed amongst the grasses and a Clay-colored Sparrow was found among the taller grasses. One magical moment was when the Bay-breasted put in an appearance at the fountain memorizing all those watching and we ended with a Chuck-will’s-widow perched on the ground in the open at the campsite.
With favorable weather conditions and very calm seas we headed out to deeper waters on our return to Key West. At Tail’s End the marker held many frigatebirds on the upper reaches while 4 Brown Boobies of different ages were on the lower tiers. Soon after, in water 170 feet deep we hit a long weed line and it was here that for 20 minutes we had a wonderful flurry of activity with Bridled Terns mating on a piece of jetsam with more seen working the weed line. Individual Audubon Shearwaters were seen to start with and then in small groups flying within 100 yards of the boat. 4 Roseate Terns with their long tails also flew by the stern by they were a good distance away.
Day 8 (17) / May 4
Ah, the cuckoo! That ever-secretive, most-wanted of Florida species. It had eluded us on all our previous efforts, but with a little searching and luck one sat out in the open to give us extraordinary looks….how quickly the disappointment of earlier attempts disappears. Onto the Everglades….with Purple Gallinules and Anhinga’s along Anhinga Trail; a Black and White Warbler that Ted had to swat away as it flew right at his head at Mahogany Hammock; Roseate Spoonbills and Wood Storks along with a multitude of dragonflies at Paurotis Pond; and that ‘must do’ Snake Bight trail, dodging alligators and mosquitoes, for that ever-hopefully glimpse of a Greater Flamingo. Though our chances were slim to begin with, it does not help that once we reached the platform, the area where they are most likely to be seen has been reduced to a couple of small viewing ‘windows’, as the mangroves are rapidly filling in the gaps! Reddish Egret, Caspian and Gull-billed Tern, a likely Marbled Godwit, and two Wurdlemanns Herons were seen here along with 2 sharks! At Flamingo the American Crocodile was a pleaser while only Brown-headed Cowbirds could be found on the extensive grass lawns. We watched an Osprey bring a large Mullet into the lower branch of a buttonwood and eventually, once the Mullet had settled down, proceed to tear away bits for its dinner – a great sight to end the day.
Day 9 (18) / May 5
Heading to South Miami to pick up the needed exotics (we already had Common Mynah pulling out of our hotel) we stopped at 216th and the turnpike to watch Cave Swallows. Here, the Caribbean race nests and we could watch them as they flew around and under the bridge coming into their nests. Some were still under construction and one was completed. From time to time they would perch on the lip of the mud nest or enter them and turn around and face outwards for us to view their dark ‘headlight’ and paler throat. Pulling up to a yard with a feeder, parakeets could be heard and soon 4 were found perched near the top of a tree – all Yellow-chevroned Parakeets, their white eye rings clearly visible. On two occasions some would venture down to the feeder where they were joined by a Monk Parakeet. Then 4 more came screaming in and all those around the yard joined them and off they went – just like that. At Matheson Hammock Park a pair of slow flying Blue and Yellow Macaws flew across the open area and Hill Mynahs were heard before being found at the very top of a snag amongst Australian Pines. A final search of the neighborhood north of Baptist Hospital produce 3 Red-whiskered Bulbuls and a Spot-breasted Oriole was seen well as we left for the airport.
- Adrian Binns